OVERVIEW
GEOGRAPHY
São Miguel is the biggest island of the archipelago, with 62.1 km in length and 15.8 km at itsmaximum width. More than half of the Azorean population (137.856 inhabitants in 2011)occupies an area of 744.7 sq. km. Together with Santa Maria, located 81 km away, São Miguelis part of the Eastern Group of the Azores Archipelago. With an altitude of 1,105 m, Pico da Varais the island’s highest point located at 37°48’34’’ latitude north and 25°12’40’’ longitude west.
HISTORY
Sometime between 1427 and 1431, the Portuguese navigators discovered the island of SãoMiguel, right after the island of Santa Maria. The initial settlement, dating from 1440 with thearrival of Gonçalo Velho Cabral, was carried out by people who came from the Portugueseregions of Estremadura, Algarve and Alentejo. Later, other communities made up of Moors,Jews and foreigners, namely French, also settled on the island. The fertile soils and theexistence of some safe bays quickly transformed the island into a trading post. The economicgrowth was sustained mainly by the production and export of wheat and woad which boostedthe island’s settlement.
Until the devastation left by the earthquake of 1522, the capital of the island was the town of VilaFranca do Campo. Then, Ponta Delgada started to play the most important role and became thecapital in 1546. The end of the 16th century was marked by the attacks of privateers, and SãoMiguel was occupied by the Spanish army in 1582 during the Azorean resistance to the militaryforces of the new King of Portugal, Filipe II of Spain. After the Restoration of the Portuguesethrone in 1640, the commercial development was given a new life by its connection with Brazil.
Throughout the 18th century and mid 19th century, the export of oranges, mainly to GreatBritain, became the main source of wealth. Most churches, decorated with rich woodcarvings,and manor houses, built with refi ned stoneworks that are the delight of visitors, date from thisperiod. From 1870 onwards, the orange groves were attacked by infectious diseases, and giventhe drastic reduction in production, many locals emigrated to Brazil and to the United States.
The introduction of new cultures – pineapple, tea, tobacco, hemp– contributed to the economicdevelopment of the 19th century following the turbulent Liberal Wars. The economy of the islandkept growing during the 20th century given the expansion of agriculture and cattle breeding,which supplied part of the dairy industry. However, since the 1980s, the progress of the servicessector has been increasingly noticeable, and it now employs most of the local population. Part of this sector, tourism is the latest investment of São Miguel, the island where the seat of theRegional Government of the Azores is located.
NATURE
THE GREEN ISLAND
The landscape of São Miguel is marked by two mountain areas separated by a low altitudeplatform. Nicknamed the Green Island, its landscape is made up of extensive fi elds and patchesof tress that were forced into the valleys of streams and into diffi cult to reach areas. Cryptomeriastands out on the island’s productive forest land and reaches large dimensions in dense woodsthat are one of the most iconic images of São Miguel. The original fl ora still survives in smallareas, with native and endemic species such as the Azores heather, faya, laurel and holly servingas a shelter for a very special bird, the Azores Bullfi nch, and making up a palette of diff erentshades of green spread out along the horizon.
VOLCANIC LANDSCAPE
São Miguel is a land of lakes nested in volcanic craters that are many kilometres wide. The mosticonic one lies in Sete Cidades. This is a place fi lled with legends and myths, and it deserves tobe seen from the Vista do Rei Lookout; from there, in noble contemplation, one can see two twinlakes, the Green and the Blue, paired together by a bridge. The ecstasy moves on to Lagoa doFogo (Fire Lake), which has a wilder nature. A large lake surrounded by extravagant, lushvegetation stands out in the Furnas Valley , which lives up to its nickname of Vale Formoso(Beautiful Valley). But the number of lakes does not stop here, since others can be found both inthe Serra Devassa and in the central part of the island, including the Canário, Santiago, Éguasand Congro Lakes… There will always certainly be another lake waiting to be discovered.
Rows of small volcanic cones and stretches of undulating green land abruptly come to an end inthe blue of the sea. The lookouts of São Miguel are mostly fi lled with this type of view.Sometimes, one can see islets along the coast. Such is the case of the magnifi cent Vila Islet infront of Vila Franca do Campo or of the Mosteiros Islet, glorious at sunset even when it is seenfrom the distant Ponta do Escalvado. In Nordeste, with its exuberant vegetation, the lookoutsare surrounded by gardens and equipped for barbeques whilst one enjoys the exceptionalviews. This is also the case of the Lomba do Cavaleiro Lookout, overlooking the whole calderaof Povoação and its seven slopes.
The natural hot water pools are one of the most attractive features that São Miguel has to off er.They have diff erent formats. They are spectacular at Caldeira Velha, a fi ne stream of crystal clearwater running thorough bright ochre trenches excavated in dark rock. They are majestic in thepool of the Terra Nostra Park, a lake of ferrous, brown water located in a luxuriant botanicgarden. They are hidden at the Poça da Beija, a pool of crystal clear water and ferrous mud.They are quiet at the Caldeiras of Ribeira Grande, where the thermal building dating back to1811 is surrounded by trees and fumaroles. They are eff usive in the Furnas Valley , home ofdozens of thermal springs, fumaroles and carbonated water which transform the valley into aMecca in terms of spas and into a virtual bottling shop.
COASTLINE
High cliff s covered with green forests, black basalt headlands that penetrate the sea,promontories and sweet inlets, challenging fajãs [fl at, low-lying strips of land on the coast], andnumerous beaches with grey volcanic sand are some of the features of São Miguel’s coastlinethat deserve to be seen and visited with tranquillity.
On the southern coast, beaches such as Pópulo, Vinha da Areia and Ribeira Quente invite youfor a swim and are sought after by many people. But if you prefer a more intimate contact withnature, the beaches of Amora, Viola, Lombo Gordo and Mosteiros among many others awaityou. Amid tips of black rock, sunbathing areas and crystal clear sea, one fi nds natural swimming pools and ponds in various places on the island; Capelas, Calhetas and Lagoa are just some ofthese sites. And at the Ponta da Ferraria, what icing on top of the cake, Mother Nature takescare of heating the seawater with volcanic hot springs, off ering an Atlantic Thalassotherapy in aunique natural setting.
Between Povoação and Furnas, Nordeste and Água Retorta, and wherever the rugged terrainends in towering coastal cliff s, there is an invitation to explore the trails that since timesimmemorial have connected the villages and houses located along the coastline.
ACTIVITIES
Given its dimension and the diversity of facilities and services it offers, São Miguel is the island for experiencing, a true gateway to the active discovery of the Azores Archipelago, with many things to do.
Other things to do on the Green Island, are canoeing and other sports activities, that can be practiced on lakes located in the craters of extinguished volcanoes. Another way to enjoy the beauty of the island is by horse riding or by cycling. The two golf courses on the island of São Miguel, besides offering the practice of this sport, also provide a direct contact with unspoiled Nature. Those who prefer more action may hire a 4×4 SUV, a quad-bike or a mountain bike. Paragliding also offers the view of the beautiful lakes from a totally different perspective and the ability to take unique pictures. One can go down to the subterranean world in the Gruta do Carvão (Carvão Cave), and there are various cliffs equipped for the practice of climbing.
On the Green Island, canoeing and other sports can be practiced on lakes located in the craters of extinguished volcanoes. In some lakes and streams, carrying the proper license, one can equally fish, an activity for which the extensive rocky shore is a paradise. Diving, whale watching or big game fishing are other activities with a great development. On the north coast of the island, there are many spots available for the practice of surf and body board. The beaches of Pópulo, Água d’Alto and Ribeira Quente featuring volcanic sand, the tidal pools spread along the island, and the spas at Ferraria and Furnas are ideal locations to relax from the strong emotions and to recharge your batteries before experiencing another adventure on São Miguel Island.
HERITAGE
CULTURE
Prominent national individuals were born on São Miguel, like the poet Antero de Quental (1842-1891) and the politician and essayist Teófi lo Braga, who was elected President of Portugal in1915. The poet Natália Correia (1923-1993), who stood out for her cultural, civic and politicalintervention, wrote the lyrics of the Offi cial Anthem of the Azores, singing “From a destinyattained by glory / we will pick more fruits and fl owers /as such is the sacred aim /of the starsthat crown the Azores.” As for paintings, the highlight goes to those of Domingos Rebelo (1891-1975), the painter of the famous painting called “The Emigrants.” Regarding sculptures, theworks of Canto da Maya (1890-1981) are outstanding. The Carlos Machado Museum, located inthe Convent of Santo André in Ponta Delgada, stores the best pieces related to the Azoreanculture, and it has important collections related to art, regional ethnography, toys, sacred art andnatural history. Defi nitely one of the things to see in Ponta Delgada.
ARCHITECTURE
Ponta Delgada, lying around a natural bay and identifi ed by its three arches known as the Portasda Cidade, stands out for the large number of churches and other buildings. Among them, thebaroque São Sebastião Church and the Todos os Santos Church stand out along thisarchitectural tour.
In Ribeira Grande, the chromatic game thickens between white masonry and basalt andignimbrite stonework. This contrast is visible in churches, such as the Nossa Senhora da EstrelaChurch, with a monumental staircase and a singular black bell tower. There are also the OitoArcos Bridge and the iron balconies of manor houses.
The water mills remain as witnesses of the past and can be found in several places on theisland. On the Ribeira dos Caldeirões, in the municipality of Nordeste, there is one that has beenrecovered and is surrounded by the natural beauty of the waterfall along the same stream.
HANDICRAFTS
The industries of ceramics and clay works have an ancestral tradition. In Vila Franca do Campo,clay is used in rustic pieces adapted to daily use. In Lagoa, ceramics are decorated withdrawings mainly painted in blue. In Ribeira Grande, the tile panels are still painted by hand.
The dolls made with corn leaves, recreating the regional costumes, came from the agriculturaltradition. The delicate fl owers made from fi sh scales, used in miniature fl oral arrangements,came from the fi shing industry.
FESTIVITIES
São Miguel Island has many interesting cultural activities that you can enjoy during yourholidays. the Holy Ghost Festivals represent an Azorean religious tradition, which is celebratedon all the islands. They take place around chapels called Impérios (Empires) from May toSeptember. Intrinsically linked to São Miguel, the age-old Festa do Senhor Santo Cristo dosMilagres (Lord Holy Christ of Miracles Festival) venerates the statue of Christ kept at theEsperança Chapel in Ponta Delgada. The festivities last for three days and take place around thefi fth Sunday after Easter Sunday. The Romeiros (Pilgrims) of São Miguel are groups of men whowalk the island on foot during Lent, praying and visiting churches and chapels dedicated to theVirgin Mary.
Starting in the parish of Ribeira Seca, municipality of Ribeira Grande, the Cavalhadas de SãoPedro (Saint Peter’s Horse Riders) take place on 29 June and are a parade of horse ridersdressed in colourful outfi ts – symbolising a king, knights, lancers, stewards and horn players ortrumpeters, riding equally adorned horses. Carnival is lively enjoyed in Ponta Delgada. TheBatalha das Limas (Water Battle) is a tradition that persists, with groups confronting each otheron the streets of the city throwing at each other various types of “weapons” fi lled with water. Thefestive season also includes various gala balls with merry-makers dressed in evening suits.There are various carnival parades in diff erent localities which attract many participants andenthusiasts.
Dancing and brass band concerts are frequent throughout the various parishes of the island,especially during the festivities in honour of each locality’s patron saint. New Year’s Eve attains anew dimension at the Portas do Mar in Ponta Delgada, with its marina and cruise-ship terminalproviding a new stage for music shows and exhibitions, with restaurants and bars animating theevening in the city.
FOOD & DRINKS
From the various cultures introduced in the Azores the highlight goes to tea. The plantations ofGorreana and Porto Formoso, appearing in the horizon as a sea of green leaves, are unique in the Europe. During visits to the museum-factories, one learns the history and evolution of themachinery, before a well deserved cup of Azorean tea.
In Furnas, the pots containing meat and vegetables for a typical boiled/steamed dish are putinto a sac and buried in the geothermal soil. The food cooks for approximately fi ve hours. Beforetasting the singular taste of a dish made in the natural heat of the earth, it will be worth waitingto see the lifting of the pot, with strong arms pulling the ropes that had been attached to theheavy pots.
On São Miguel Island there is a tradition for cultivating exotic fruits such as pineapple, annona,guavas and passion fruit, which are eaten raw or used to make liqueurs. The pineapple greenhouses, spread throughout Fajã de Baixo, Lagoa and Vila Franca do Campo, preserve age-oldpractices which can be discovered in a guided visit.
The cuisine of São Miguel is fi lled with fi sh dishes, always with a common factor: freshness.There are also various types of sea food, and delicacies like the barnacle, a crustacean boiled insea water. The meat comes from the cattle bred in pastures, and it is soft and tasty. As forappetizers, there are the famous local red, mashed peppers served with fresh cheese. But theselocal red peppers are also used in various recipes. The bolo lêvedo from Furnas is a cake that iswell known and may be served during any meal. As for sweets, the most famous are theQueijadas de Vila Franca do Campo (Vila Franca do Campo Custards). And to top another day inthe vacation, smokers may even fi nish their meal with a locally manufactured cigar or cigarillo.